Great Eastern Journey, Sun, 24 Mar 2013 | written by Simon
Simon at a Transit in Asia, India

Q: What is the average ground speed velocity of a laden bus?Q: European or Indian bus?

As it turns out, in India it’s about 30-35km/h (20mph). I just spent 25 hours on a bus to travel 730km from Omkareshwar to Khajuraho. Well, on four buses, but with only about an hour break for each change. 25 hours of being a packed sardine, with some eye resting in place of sleep.

3 hours, 35 degrees, no AC.

But that’s OK, I didn’t mind this that much. It’s 25 hours of constant, uninterrupted car beeping that I did mind. No ear plugs help for that. Next time I’m in India I`m going with those big earmuffs they use on construction sites. I’m not joking. Constant 60db 24/7 can’t be good for you. But they just love it that way! They beep, they constantly shout, several people on the bus had to play music from their mobiles. But what completely defeated me was a tuk tuk driver’s parrot. The toy hung in the auto rickshaw and he proudly showed it to me. The parrot recorded the sounds around it and played it back with a 5 sec delay. So now I could hear all the beeping twice. Just… kill… me…

Driver’s lair

Anyway, traveling by bus is a lesson in trust. None of the buses I boarded had any signs showing where they are going. Two of the four buses didn’t even leave from a station, they just stood on the street waiting for people. None of the drivers spoke English. All I had to go by was someone pointing: Indore? That one. Khajuraho? This one. And I got here without any problems whatsoever. It’s good. Moreover, every now and then the buses stop for some food and drink sold by vendors on stations, so I had a chance to try some more new things. Good fast food they have here.

Bus station

Although traveling here takes ages, not many people do anything on the bus, not even read or talk. I always wonder how long one can stare in space like that, but apparently very long. Perhaps being on the bus should be a mediation exercise.

What’s wrong with this picture?

I finally got to Khajuraho and checked in the hotel. It’s amazing. It’s out of the town centre which means that it’s pretty quiet. Shit. Just as I wrote this someone switched loud music next door. Argh!!!